Saturday, May 31, 2008

Wicked picture of Bec on the Kind...

Up on Straight outta Bedlam. SCOPE IT OUT!

Last Weekend Leftovers

More shots from last weekend kids. Can't wait to get out tomorrow! Until then, enjoy some psyche courtesy of the higher-ups at Straightintoyerfacelam!

Cat running a lap on the TJ problem. Andrew on Double Arete Matt on Double Arete Andrew looking concerned on Double Arete. Matt pressing it out HARD on Free Hang. Horray CLIMBING!

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Foolface Installment / Done Deal Dyno

Diggs Matt
Sweet problem and a bit more of a jump than it first appears!

One thing is certain. If you get up there, YOU HAVE TO STICK IT!

Monday, May 26, 2008

Back in the saddle baby!


The Kind...

As I said below, The Kind boulder is prime! This weekend it saw a few proud ascents from the face-lam clowns.

Bec sent "The Kind" after working out some beta and a committing toss for the top. Nice job Bec! K-Diggity also worked the problem quite a bit (between finger warming rests) but unfortunately did not send. This may sound like a selfish take... but WE GET TO GO BACK SOON!!!!
So nice to return to such a beautiful area with a psyched group of climbers! Thank you all for staying positive and crushing!

It's Oficially Park Season!

Well, sort of...

Chaos canyon will probably be snowed in WELL into July. However, the Emerald Lake lines are prime and ready to go!

There was a large crew at The Kind boulder on Sunday, but the lesser-traveled lines were crowd free and ready for sending! Matt Chiabotti was psyched to avoid the line for and get some climbing in on this unnamed* problem. (*PLEASE correct me if you know)
It took some work and skin, but ultimately it paid off.

NICE SEND DOOD!!!!!!!! 11 !!!!! 1

Saturday, May 24, 2008

Welcome to V6 (Richard Edition)

Your favorite Rich sent his first "real" V6 on Saturday! Those of you who are familiar with the problem know what a struggle this is. Definitely hard for the grade and a proud send! Celebrate Rich! You deserve it! The problem in question is Building Blocks at Vedauwoo. Rich and I ventured up to Wyoming to pick up his brand new Organic pad and enjoy some of the local boulders. Aside from Rich's mad sending skillz, the trip had quite a few highlights. They include:
  • Deep Fried Mac & Cheese!
  • Me, pushing over a big boulder. Who's a tough guy? I'm a tough guy!
  • 1 box of Twinkies, 5 people, no leftovers!
  • Rich demonstrating his high ball slab climbing technique. Very interesting. Seems like it would have been easier without all the shaking and fear in his eyes. But hey, whatever gets you to the top!
  • Chicken Finger Breakfast!
  • Proof positive that getting a new Organic pad will immediately bump your bouldering a V-grade. Guaranteed!
  • Something so creepy and disturbing that I can't think about it without laughing uncontrollably. Apparently this isn't a normal reaction. I love Wyoming!
  • American style sandwich!
  • Rad Co Op climbing gym in downtown Laramie!

Building Blocks is one of the most classic problems I've ever seen. A pure power problem that involves big moves between good holds. I know a lot of strong climbers who had quite the time with it. More importantly, Steph would never be able to do it. It also has cobbles that stick out of the rock to form the coolest holds. Unfortunately, much like the trail of Zacarias Moussaoui and the underground tunnels at Disneyland, there were no cameras capturing this wicked send. Below are several artists renderings that were compiled.

Side note: There was some accusations thrown out regarding me misleading people about how far away Vedauwoo is. Since Rich is honest and dependable, I had him keep time starting at RJ1. We ran into some construction that slowed us down. However, it was 1hr 50min to get to Laramie and 1hr 45min to get back to Denver. Its about an additional 15min drive all the way into Laramie. So, you can subtract about 15min from that if you're just going to Vedauwoo.

Thursday, May 22, 2008


Which one do you think the fish would eat first?

Intro to Evans (Evans 101)

My first day to Mt. Evans, Eliott Morrison (god bless him) thought it fit to show me some of the...shall we say...more obscure lines.

The good news was, I managed to nab a Second Ascent.

Can anyone name the problem?
Our day also ended in a torrential downpour. So despite what you may be thinking, it was FAR BETTER that we did not hike all the way to area A.

Good call Eliott!

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Afterwork at SOMO

This is how you get invited back to after work sessions kids. Danny proved from the start that he was in it to win it.
Now if we can just get him to carry that mondo into Evans we're all set. Rich spent a couple burns on Squirming Coil. Unfortunately his ankle was still way sore from all the attempts over the weekend. Fresh skin / body and some cool temps and he will be able to cross this thing off.
Kristen managed to tick another V6 by pulling through the Double Arete problem. Congratulations Diggs!
Adam McKenzie also pulled a vertically challenged person ascent of this big squeezy wrestling match. When asked for comment he replied "It climbs really well!". So do you Adam. So do you.
And in other WAY EXCITING news, John added a new work of art to the crew in the form of a spankin' new BIG ORGANIC PAD! I think its safe to say that this traddie is off the wagon!
Epic weekend coming up. Don't miss the planning process! If you're psyched to climb any day over the long weekend, get in touch NOW!

If Marcelo was a cartoonist...

Poudre Canyon

I promised pictures from the weekend and here you go:
Kristen working the lower moves of Scarface. She was making good progress, but the conditions were just not right for sending. Cat has the bottom part of this problem ABSOLUTELY WIRED. She consistently stuck the left hand sloper/lip feature and was throwing for the high right jug. I couldn't even do the first two moves.
Kevin and I played with a problem that was 100% power 60% of the time. This is him trying the campus beta to start.
As usual, the mutants in the crew managed to do something difficult and SCARY in quick succession. This is Dr. Ben on the upper holds of Crazy Cody. See the spotters hands for scale. Justin also posted on this subject, but the pictures just do not do the terrible landing justice.
Thomas on the terrible slopers of Crazy Cody.
Of course Marcelo had to do it by avoiding the right hand jug at the lip. Honestly people, I don't know how he survives these things.
I had the pleasure of meeting Ben's friend Barrett on this day as well. This is him on Crazy Cody. Although he didn't bag it on this day, I LOVE the try hard in his face throwing for the lip! (Which he stuck)
I'm psyched to go back and get on this stuff! See you there in the fall!

Monday, May 19, 2008

Sharma Lunge

Everyone knows that Marcelo loves to huck his meat skyward. But something NOT everyone knows is that he can do it to the tune of V10.
After 30 minutes of irritating Thomas with the usual Marcelo shenanigans, (including jumping to the lip and attempting to down-climb a very dynamic move), everyone's favorite delo sent "Sharma Lunge" (V10) on this first actual try.

He also did it twice due to a very minor dab that likely did not take any weight on the first go. Way to do it only for yourself der Delo!

Hey, remember that time we went to Joe's...

Oh Man, wasn't that fun? Yes, yes it was. I think everyone had a great time. However, there were many subplots to this trip. One of the big ones was Kevin, fighting with Planet of the Apes. Now, despite being one of the coolest problems ever, POA was really giving it to Kevin. Last trip he spent 3 days working it into the ground but was unable to send. It was kind of sad to watch. I mean, here Kevin is working so hard for something without success. He even moved his tent far away from everyone else so we wouldn't hear him crying softly. Which would have worked great, had he cried softly. But nooooo, he had to weep like a grieving widow. Seriously, I don't think anyone slept for more than a few hours the whole damn week. So we go back to Joe's, and Kevin is all like, "Sniffle, I want to go try Planet of the Apes." And I’m all like, "You ok Kevin?" And he's all like, "I'm fine, I just have something in my eye. Let's roll." So we head out to new Joe's and Kevin throws it down like old school Bill Walton. You know what the key was? When I saw Kevin tearing up earlier, I started thinking of things to do. I remembered back at Carter Lake, Kevin was trying to send Kahuna Roof. Well, he started wrestling with Marcelo. Kevin does this a lot because he's really touchy when it comes to men. Anyway, things didn't go so well for Kevin that day and he ended up being forced to tap out. [I know the ruling was surrounded in controversy, but Marcelo said he had Kevin right where he wanted him and I have no reason to doubt something that Marcelo tells me.] Kevin wasn't able to send the problem that day. So I figured that if loosing a wresting match would cause Kevin to fail at sending a boulder problem, then not loosing a wrestling match would cause Kevin to not fail at sending a boulder problem. So I picked a fight with Kevin. It was difficult for me. I had to do all this acting where I pretended it hurt and that I couldn't breathe when all the while I was just hoping to get thru it without breaking both his arms and legs at once. But, it worked out and Kevin went on to send the problem. No more tears on his pillow! Going thru the first moves like it ain't no thang. You don't understand how hard what i'm doing really is. Don't judge me. I liked it when he started swinging around like he was Delo. Now You see why everyone calls him "small arms"