Friday, March 20, 2009

Yay horray, it went!

I had the great pleasure of knocking off one of my current projects today!


Turning Point!

(photos by diggs)
It was UGLY, thrutchy, and mostly accomplished by try-hard, but it felt GREAT to stand on top. Definitely the hardest thing I've done since coming back from the blown up finger.

PSYCHED!

In related news, diggs sent a small project of hers just below turning point right before!

WOAH double send day!
Nice work diggs!

5 comments:

Situner said...

P.S.

Can anyone:

1) name the problem diggs is on?

2) give me an accurate idea for grade on turning point?

After consulting 8a, I came away with soft 7 or 8.

Really?

sock hands said...

nice job matticus! psyched for this newz! is it 'original grapple' that diggs is on? looks like it could be. i think this is the one that dave wahl broke a huge chunk off of last year and wrecked... as far as grade, don't worry about it, mang. turning point was harder for me by far than hollow's way or other 8/9 stuff. i think it depends on temps, method, and attitude. lots of folks like to sandbag this one since you can try all the crux moves in isolation, but i think the moves are quite not easy. i've done it over a dozen times... maybe over two dozen times [i used to circuit in the satellites every day before work at REI] and every single time it feels like i have to dig deep and give it everything i have. "soft 7" does not require such an effort after so many repeats. point: a well deserved send with well deserved points.

dood, you're so money and you don't even know it

Situner said...

I guess my confusion comes from the idea that The Dali is supposed to be soft for V9 (from the bottom-most matched start) and this didn't feel as difficult for me as that.

I don't know. It's all nonsense anyway.

Bottom line: fun day, good problem, psyched to have sent.

smarvez said...

Nice work Matt! Solid 8 for sure. Don't take no shit.

Unknown said...

Good job guys!!! I agree that it is solid V8.