Monday, September 29, 2008

Horray Fall!

It's fall, the temps are dropping, the air is chilling, and it is an EXCELLENT time to be a climber.

This past Sunday, Diggs and I had the pleasure of joining Dave, Sarah, and Rich for a day of old business in red cliff.
It was an odd session in that we all had EXACTLY the same boulder in mind. Diggs and Rich were back for another round on Minturn Mile, while the rest of us had our eye on Return of the Jedi.

I'm happy to say that a few projects went down.

After a few super strong efforts, Sarah cruised through the moves on Jedi and sent it. The psyche scream on top said it all.
After being educated by Sarah on proper resting techniques (actually rest) and some insight from Dave on the mental side (try like its your send burn) I managed to pull through the moves. Super PSYCHED! Despite doing the problem in overlapping sections and looking very strong, Dave didn't walk away calling Hot-Flashes to report the gnar. However, that just makes the upcoming send feel that much better!
Diggs FOUGHT HARD on Minturn Mile, also doing the problem in overlapping sections but her skin cried uncle and she had no choice but to surrender. It will likely go next session.
Rich looks like a total rock-star in this picture! I'm sure he felt like one too after sending Minturn Mile. I believe it was on his "to do this summer" list so congratulations are definitely in order for a SMOOTH send.
If anyone would like to come enjoy the cool fall temps with us over the upcoming weekend, DO IT! If you waste these opportunities you'll be kicking yourself when the snow hits!


Thursday, September 25, 2008

Just Plain Disturbing

Original Source is Unknown.

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Try this!

It's a very unique color test... Click Here to try it. I scored a zero on my first try. See what you come up with!

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Really big trees

I'm nearing the end of my visit to California to film with Kevin. I'll post up some pictures from the trip later, but I thought I'd share this right away... I got to visit the amazing redwood trees today. These are maybe not quite as big as the Sequoia trees of northern California, but they are really impressive plants. Some of the trees we saw today are over 300 feet tall. If you were on top of one of these trees, it would take you four rappells with a 50-meter rope to get down. (for all you math whiz-kids, you need to double the rope in order to make one rappel.)
These are really amazing trees and I highly recommend checking them out if you're in the neighborhood. Kevin is a great climber and some of the footage is amazing. I'll post some up soon.

Friday, September 19, 2008

Change Up - High and Away

This is like a planet earth special just waiting to happen. I can just hear the narration in one of those really smart-sounding British accents that can make even Kayaking seem important:

One of the rare times this natural wonder has been caught on film!

The bouldering troglodyte has ventured to the cliffs in search of terror and sewing machine leg! After tying in his safety string, and directing his friends what to do with his remains, he ventures forth onto the stone.
However, after ascending more than 17 feet, the degenerates arms grow tired and his legs weary.

It seems doom is imminent.

Clearly the more cliff-savvy female of the species has snagged this male. All he can do is wait for death's cold embrace.
But WAIT! He somehow pulls through the sloping crimp crux and escapes to a "creative" rest on a nearby ledge! Ahh, but the female will not give up so easily!
She begins the pursuit displaying adept technique that evolution has honed over millions of years for just such a situation.
The female quickly destroys and consumes the boulderer's now-fragile ego.

(photo not shown due to graphic nature of content)

She continues to the top knowing that none of her surrounding climbers can reach her there and she can safely revel in her victory.
Seriously though, a Sunday spent in C-wood top roping on some of the moderates around the grocery store walls was a nice change of pace. Rich and I struggled while Diggs, Katie, and Marcelo crushed.

Hope to see everyone at the comp. in Vedauwoo tomorrow! Check lower post for info!

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Word of the day

- noun (singular)
  1. A single poop.

ex. "Damnit JJ! This v7 variation of insert-perfectly-good-problem-name-here  is a useless fece."

NOTE:  The word "fece" should not be confused with it's better known plural "feces", which indicates some quantity of poops.

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

More Mt. Evans

Another amazing Saturday was spent at Mt. Evan area A this past weekend. Things went down. Details below.

Despite what I felt were a couple very strong burns, the Dali snubbed me again. I CAN'T WAIT TO STAND ON TOP OF THIS THING!!!!!!!!
Karyn and others (including me) spent quite a bit of time on Pat's Arete. Dave Cook sent. The rest of us struggled, but enjoyed every minute. Danny is getting close on the low start to the Dali as well. He seems to be able to stay strong over more burns than I can and I would not be surprised to see him send it soon. Good luck dood!
Dave Cook on his way to victory. We should force him to climb in a weight vest so he stops hiking my projects.
Dr. Wahl also put in some excellent burns on Pat's. He's close! Real close. Keep in mind this is the right exit. (As the climb begs to be completed.)
After being super supportive to everyone and sitting under their projects for over 5 hours, our very own K-Diggity sent her project, Maker's Mark, on her first try! STRONG!
Employing the Digg's midget beta, Fiona also pulled off this rig "send-train style" hot on the heels of diggs. Nice Work Ladies!
Horray Mt. Evans. Enjoy it while it lasts! Temps are PRIME!!!!

Monday, September 15, 2008

Be There

This important announcement comes from Mr. Betterton via e-mail:

Click for Directions

To Central Vedauwoo: Take Vedauwoo exit off of I-80. Follow the road until the intersection where it becomes a dirt road. Turn left here and stay on the paved road until it runs into the Gazebo.

Random Info:

The cost to enter the comp is $20. People can come and climb without competing, but won't be eligible for any of the prizes. There is going to be a raffle at the end with tons of gear and several crash pads. Also, anyone who enters in the comp will get 40% off Organic apparel and discounts on crash pads, so it's would be pretty easy to make the cost pay for itself.

After the comp there is going to be a slide show and some random hanging out. If anyone wants to stay the night, there are a few different options. There is lots of camping around VW. Also, they are going to open up the co op for anyone who wants to sleep there. If you want more info on this, you can send Josh an e-mail.

your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face your face.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Summer Blockbusters Part Deux

Back by popular demand:
I think the last one is my favorite.

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Mt Hevans

Fall is in the air at Mt. Evans and it is a good time to be a climber!

This past weekend, we had a great Saturday at area A. Kristen spent some time on Maker's Mark and has the beta dialed for the send.
Rich was having some trouble with the campus move but it certainly wasn't from a lack of try-hard! Just look at that face!
I got to spend some time on the low start to the Dali. Despite being very close, I didn't pull it out. Maybe next time.
Rich got psyched on the stand start to the Dali and was coming very close to sticking the dyno. The problem is so much fun from there!
I also got psyched (and scared) on Pat's arete. Looking at the pictures, it seems like you are a lot closer to the next hold than you feel while climbing! I'm excited to get back on this next time!
Flanimal is killing it as usual. Here she is working the moves on Clear Blue Skies. She can do all the moves and is now working on the link up. Keep it up flan!
It was feeling distinctly fall like this weekend. Prime conditions kids. Plan your sending trips soon!

Thursday, September 4, 2008


As you may have guessed... Rich showed up in the 11th hour at Red Cliff with enough PSYCHE to pull of what may go down as the greatest "audible" call in history.

Despite skewed estimates of the drive time between Vail and Moab we were all in and headed for the desert. We arrived around 10:30 pm, set up camp, and immediately set out for the big-bend bouldering area.
Midnight sessions have their virtues. It was absolutely gorgeous out! Not too cold, not too hot, just NICE. I soon learned that playing with the camera and a headlamp, you could "draw" light pictures.

Of course, given our crew's average level of maturity, this quickly evolved into drawing light penises and the accompanying bag.
Then the idea occurred... Cooperation could yield EPIC results. Rich and I were on ball duty while Dave saw to our esteemed member. While I feel Rich and I succeeded in both size and relative symmetry, I think Dave may have come up a little... Ahem...short? OK, OK, on with the climbing pictures. Sorry. Somehow, years from now, I'm almost certain I will remember the drawing shenanigans more clearly than the climbing. W3RD.

After warming up, Karen and crew got on the "split decision" problem as I walked back to camp for more propane. After lots of tries and some frustration, she found workable beta on that "last go best go" try and managed to pull over the top. NICE! Next on the list was Diggs who had some old business to settle with Senor Trujillo. After some try hard and fun working the problem with Rich and Karyn, she SENT! Congratulations Diggs!
Karyn was able to ride the send train and also pulled over the lip shortly afterward. I'm beginning to suspect her and Dave are taking supplements that allow you to fly. (Pure speculation of course)
Rich also spent some time wrestling with Mr. Trujillo but it just didn't happen. He did seem to be laughing his ass off after hitting the pad each time though so was it really a loss?
Ominous no? I had plans to get on Circus Trick which has managed to elude me for 2 glorious trips to Moab. I cannot begin to explain the psyche coming from plenty of lantern light, a few brew-dogs, and beautiful conditions, but I found it EXTREMELY motivating.
Ahh yes, Dave Cook. Bless Him. He had one hell of a weekend. Return of the Jedi, moves worked out for Immortality, Brown Power, Block Party, and Circus Trick all went down for him quickly and seemingly easily. This dood is crushing!
I was able to pull off Circus Trick and enjoyed it immensely. Swinging from the jug after the dyno is very satisfying, as is pulling over the lip on jugs and sprinting to the top of the block on a moonless night.
We climbed around on various lines until about 3am before turning in. One of the most unique sessions and also one of the most fun that I have ever been a part of.

Thanks to everyone for coming out, being positive, and bringing the GNAR!!!

We should do it again soon!

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Someone had to do it.

Found on the interweb.


Labor Day weekend brought some much needed time off for several of the clowns in the crew. It also afforded the opportunity to visit far-away haunts for the opportunity to knock off old projects.

How did we fare? Just you wait and see!

This shot is ridiculously blown out. Why is it up you might ask? Well, it is a simultaneous butt-shot of Kristen and Karyn wearing almost the exact same outfit. It just blows my mind that people would even try things like this.
I asked Dave to give me a Climbing Magazine cover-worthy image. If we edit out the background and put him on some horror-show in Eldo about 500 feet up, I think we have it! Ahh yes. Diggs brought the gnar to the aircraft carrier boulder. Her and Karyn both worked the moves and were closing in on a sequence when the rain started. Boo. So much for the Aircraft Carrier boulder session.
Upon arriving back in camp, we learned that a scant 3 miles from where we were getting rained out, the boulders were still bone dry. After some dinner and rest, we headed up to the Minturn Mile boulder for a headlamp sesh.

Dave got on "Return of the Jedi" and after a few quick remember-the-beta burns, he sent it smoothly. I swear this dood can fly. I also swear he has a head...despite what this image may lead you to believe. I also tried the line quite a bit and managed to do it in two overlapping sections. Unfortunately, the send would not come that night. However, Rich was to be coming up Sunday afternoon and wanted to work Minturn-Mile. I figured I would rest all the next day and send the following evening.
The next day dawned fairly cool and we were all VERY slow to motivate. Unfortunately this would turn out to be a dab, as weather was on the way. Karyn enjoyed some of the lower-grades the area had to offer.
Karyn and Diggs both worked Minturn Mile early in the day, but I decided to hold out for Rich and less humid / warm conditions.

Kryn bringing the GRRRR. Beta is now figured out kids. Sends coming soon.
T.J. showed up right as the rain began which ended the Minturn Mile session for the girls and the "immortality" session for Dave. T.J. talked me into sliding down a wet boulder on crash pads. Unfortunately, it didn't work. It was fun to try though!
After a quick drive into Red-Cliff for beers at Mango's while waiting out the rain and phone calls to the Dello, it was clear that Red Cliff was not going to be drying out anytime soon.

But what would become of our heroes? Would they tuck tail and head back to Denver, projects left dripping in the aspens?

Or would Rich show up with enough PSYCHE to help call the most epic audible of all time and send the crew on to a session filled with sends, fun, and glory!?!

Here is a hint of the answer to that question. Part 2 to come later in the week.