It's fall, the temps are dropping, the air is chilling, and it is an EXCELLENT time to be a climber.
This past Sunday, Diggs and I had the pleasure of joining Dave, Sarah, and Rich for a day of old business in red cliff.
It was an odd session in that we all had EXACTLY the same boulder in mind. Diggs and Rich were back for another round on Minturn Mile, while the rest of us had our eye on Return of the Jedi.I'm happy to say that a few projects went down.
After a few super strong efforts, Sarah cruised through the moves on Jedi and sent it. The psyche scream on top said it all.
After being educated by Sarah on proper resting techniques (actually rest) and some insight from Dave on the mental side (try like its your send burn) I managed to pull through the moves. Super PSYCHED!
Despite doing the problem in overlapping sections and looking very strong, Dave didn't walk away calling Hot-Flashes to report the gnar. However, that just makes the upcoming send feel that much better!
Diggs FOUGHT HARD on Minturn Mile, also doing the problem in overlapping sections but her skin cried uncle and she had no choice but to surrender. It will likely go next session.
Rich looks like a total rock-star in this picture! I'm sure he felt like one too after sending Minturn Mile. I believe it was on his "to do this summer" list so congratulations are definitely in order for a SMOOTH send.
If anyone would like to come enjoy the cool fall temps with us over the upcoming weekend, DO IT! If you waste these opportunities you'll be kicking yourself when the snow hits!STAY PSYCHED!
5 comments:
I wanna try!!!!! it looks amazazing
Grrrrrr!
WAEIOURD !!!!!!
['word' w/ all the vowels, except sometimes y]
Hey Justin, I've got a question for you. You motivated me with your picture of Liza's Lockoff to start working that problem. I am able to get to the top of the rail, but the lip looks impossibly far away. Is it a huck to get to the lip or were you able to just rock up, pulling with the heel.
Thanks for the help and for introducing me to that area. It's a great problem!
@ groakin: word. note: this is not my blog, though i frequent it and talk smack to situner [NICE SEND DOOD!!!! YOU SHOULDA TXTD ME!!]
so, for me it was definitely a perched heel lockoff. the holds on the lip are very poor and i could not stick them if i did the move dynamically... some could, but not me. then, the match is funky hard, till you get to the decent gaston rail out right. scotty neel was going to the lip more dynamically than i, but this is only possible because he cheated by growing more that i did during adolescence. chucklesface did the lockoff statically like i did, but he found it helpful to perch hard on a toe instead of a heel. i found this suggestion to be horrible and i took back my beta thank yous that i gave him for telling me so.
so to recap: find a sweetspot on the rail and perch hard on the heel hook... finger crawl till you get there. then, don't blow it.
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