Wednesday, March 31, 2010

C-Wood summer sessions resume

It's certainly been warm enough kids... I hope you are all getting out.

I had the pleasure of catching up with K-Diggs at the font area of Castlewood for a quick afternoon session this past Tuesday!
The "stage" boulder was crushed in every way possible (not unlike a Pueblo Prom Queen) and then we moved on to a classier line (not much... think Canon City) "Cave Route Direct"!!! Diggs was pulling all the moves, but didn't quite figure out high enough feet for the dyno move. Close though. Real close.
Nate happened to pop up, and spent some time on the line. No send, though he is clearly strong enough to overpower it. (Commitment issues...what dood doesn't have them?)
I re-sent the old direct, with the usual ass dab. Then started working the "lower" start and brutalized my right ass-cheek to the point I walk like a crochety old man today.

Loving every minute, and regretting nothing. (Thanks for the fun sesh kids.)

Monday, March 22, 2010

We're Sinking...

Chip, Rich, other readers... (yea...right) Here is the post you've all been anxiously awaiting. Here is the proof that smallish stones were climbed in Utah recently by those possessing the sick-rad-gnarness known as "psyche". Here are the photos and stories from MOAB and JOE'S VALLEY, UT.

Our story begins when our heroes find themselves in the big bend bouldering area on a fine Saturday morning. It's cool out, it's dry, so what to get on? HOW ABOUT HELL BELLY BISHES??????
The rad-man formerly known as TJ challenged this retarded-hard climb and came away with some good progress. Proud TJ. Real Proud.

(he also made this progress while a fun dood from grand junct. sprayed about various pro-climbers falling off and calling the problem an ES-tupid climb)
As far as Moab goes, I had one real objective. CHAOS. I'm proud to say it went kids. And yes. I topped out. (I just want to thank Jaeger, because I've been climbing on Choss (Chaos-heh heh- get it) since I cut my outdoor bouldering teeth, and loving every second! Yes...The experience helped.
We also flirted with Phantom Fighter Dyno, which didn't go particularly well. However, it was a fun way to spend the afternoon.
After deciding neither of us was "Retard-strong" enough to send, we decided that saving skin for Joe's was a better plan, and we should pack the car and head out.
Unfortunately, Mother Nature hates me. I forgot to mention this to TJ, and God bless him, he thinks she actually hates HIM!
Our drive to Orangeville was slightly delayed by worsening clouds, snow, and overall not good weather happenings. When we arrived in Joe's, we were greeted by the following sight:
Yea. Bad news Bears. TJ looked for dry climbs while driving (scaring the piss out of me in the process) and eventually settled on checking out "worst case scenario" appropriate.

However, no dryness was to be found today, so we decided to hit the food ranch, warn incoming climbers, and grab some food.
Upon returning to the valley to make camp, we decided that the 4X4 of TJ's truck would be more than enough to handle a little snow... we were WRONG. We pulled in to the main campsite in the right fork and made it about 30 feet before stopping. My comment to describe the sensation... "We're Sinking."

We dug the car out (where I say "we" there read: "TJ") and headed up the left fork to ultimately set up camp in the pullout for the mine-cart boulder. Epic.
The following day, everything was covered in snow, wet, and the weather was threatening so we decided to check out TRIASSIC. Bad Plan.
The roads were muddy as hell, we slid TJ's AWD 4Runner no less than 3 times (one almost catastrophically) and we even hiked through tons of snow for the wrong look at the boulders. FAIL.

On the upside, TJ did shoot this excellent photo of me trying to boulder INTO the car without stepping in 6 inches of mud.
So with Triassic out of the question, Psyche at an all time low, and my thermals smelling like bad meat mixed with good cheese, TJ decided to man up and start the climbing.

He jumped on Worst Case Scenario and did all the moves (easily from my perspective) but decided that tweaky, cold, wet soreness was not worth it.

We hit up the bar (Chick's) with the intention of killing a couple 3.2 Bud Lights and then getting some food. What happened instead cannot be described. (mainly because I can't remember most of it)

We started drinking a beer. Then Bob (red shirt below) offered to buy us shots. TJ was out, and I tried, but he wasn't taking "no" for an answer. They ran out of his shot, so he bought us a beer. Then we started playing pool.
Then I broke a window-trim piece at the bar, blamed it on his friend, talked a LOT of crap, drank some more beers, took a shot with Bob and company, made a "screwing guys" joke, almost got hit in the face pretty hard from the guy on the right, played more pool, reassured TJ we weren't going to be murdered, met up with RYLAN and LUCAS (woot!) and eventually left the bar.

TJ's telling of this is much more entertaining, and here is a shot of how the evening might have turned out for me:
So yea. After gas station Hot-Pockets and a Pepsi I managed to shoot this photo of TJ and Rylan "tent pole fencing" as they set up camp in the mine-cart pullout to join us. (notice no blurring- I'm pretty proud of that given my state at the time)
The following morning dawned cold and windy as hell, but clear, and we sat in Rylan's car for a while before deciding SENDING TEMPS WERE TOTALLY PASSING US BY!!!!!

We headed up to the EDEN area where Lucas CRUSHED G2-07 (V8) in only a few burns. (and immediately after putting on his pair of 5.10 Dragons Rylan might add...)
I got on an old flame called External Tulips (it looks like a vagina...ha ha). I'm glad to say I can add it to the send list.
From there, it was on to New Joe's where we hit Chips, I'd Rather be climbing her, and the following problems:

This is TJ. He is one strong bish. This is TJ on black lung. I can assure you that just pulling off the ground on this problem is an accomplishment. Well done dood. Well done.
TJ and Rylan spent some time working out the opening moves to Black Lung while I sat lazily shooting photos.

Both looked strong, and had a good time (minus the pain of pulling on those holds) working the problem.
I got excited about Resident Evil after watching Lucas mess with it, and had to give a few burns...

This one is definitely on the project list now. SOOOOO GOOOD!!!!
Rylan had one hell of a good "last-go-best-go" on black lung and stuck the first move and then almost got the second! That was rad to watch man!
A pretty great trip by my standards. Yea, we might have been snowed out for a day and a half, but we sent the "get hammered with locals" problem in the best way possible!

Big thanks to TJ, Rylan, and Lucas for being good friends, tolerating my dumb-ass, and climbing on amazing rock in UT for the weekend!

Big "Wish you were there!'s" to the usual suspects.
For those that don't know, this is Rylan. He shoots photoz way better than I do. You can visit his blog HERE. (Do so for more photos of this great trip, and his extended coverage after TJ and I left)

Thanks for checking my blog foolfaces! Hope you enjoyed!

Saturday, March 20, 2010

here's the deal...

I left my camera in TJ's truck when coming back from Moab and joe's... I know. FAIL.

Amazing postingness will follow as soon as I can get my fotoz from da magicked pitcher box.... Heh-yuck.

Probably tomorrow kids! Check back soon!

Posted from Blogium for iPhone

Thursday, March 11, 2010

The journey ahead...

T.J. and I leave tomorrow mid-day for Moab / Joe's. However, the highway has totally taken a beating from our beloved rocks.
Are they scared of our treacherous plot to climb their chalky faces? Are they simply protesting man's hubris at the thought of taming the wild? Doesn't matter. Either way we're going. Hopefully crews will open two lanes of I-70 by tomorrow as planned. If not, its a loooong detour.

Utah, here we come.

Monday, March 8, 2010


Chuck Fryberger

International Foosball champion

Cigar Aficionado


He is at least one of these things, and damn good at it.

Check the trailer for his new climbing movie HERE.

CLICK THE LINK... you know you want to.

Diggs Sent CYTOGRINDER (V8)!!!!

I was not in attendance, so the photos are not send photos... BUT SHE TOTALLY SENT!!!!!!
To the best of my knowledge, this means that Diggs totally skipped V7 and has officially sent her first V8! NICE SEND DIGGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Probably the best photos I've ever taken

Rich and I were not excited to leave Moab. Instead, we pulled over and took a couple photos of weird clouds, and fun times.
In the middle of the road. Epic good times. I miss Moab man. I miss it real bad.

Monday, March 1, 2010

The day of sendingness / the rest of Moab

The rest of the Moab photos... in no particular order.

Alexis day 4...
Elizabeth working Army of Darkness... Asher sending "army". It's what the Shay-Nimmerows do.
Flailing on Choss (Spelled Chaos)
Diggs crushing project "Block Party"
The Flanimal on the Rehab...(for injuries)
Elizabeth pretending to heel-toe cam, but just being tall instead!
More Diggs Sendingness...Brown Power anyone?
Mom's blocks have given me a compulsion...
Ahh yes. Gotta love "Washed Up"
Elizabeth. Basketball Diaries.
See Above.
Who the "F" is this "A-H"????
Rich Crushing on Choss... (Chaos)... Why did we drive so far when Castlewood is so close? (nyuk nyuk nyuk)
More of Rich Getting it done.
My courtship was short lived...but BEAUTIFUL!!!!! (For real though...looking forward to sends in future trip)
So...Asher. Yea. He might be the next Daniel or Paul. Way to come off of injury and almost send a SOLID 8. Jealous dood. Jealous.
Elizabeth on "washed up".
So. Yea. As I said. One heck of a trip. Thanks to all the fool faces who showed up and threw down!

And thank you to Diggs and Elizabeth for photos!!!!! You Rock!