Thursday, October 30, 2008

Joe's Day 2

Day two found us at New Joe's. The only trip we would make to this particular area on the trip.

Kristen wasted no time warming up by doing several problems in the closet including Pimpin Jeans and Bad Jeans. A little further uphill, she continued to make strong progress on "Chips".

She is consistently getting into the hold you jump from, but having small troubles with feet. SO COOL TO SEE HER MOVING THROUGH THIS RIG!
As I took down Planet of the Apes, Erin read and Kristen spotted. No photos were taken, but it is probably a good thing, as I HUMPED THE SHIZ out of the topout. Whatever. It counts.
Next up was an incredible problem I had not heard of before. Thomas flashing the powerful "I'd rather be climbing HER".
I can't wait to go back and finish this thing! SO FREAKING COOL! Pictures do not do justice.
Thomas and I about to have a Velociraptor Fight. Clearly I'm going for intimidation...though, admittedly, he does have some pretty sweet tattoos.
We were psyched to hike all the way uphill and try a problem called "Salsa Verde" which was one big move to easier stuff. It was a fun flash for both Thomas and I.

The view from up there is TOTALLY worth the walk.
After a good lunch at the Diner in town, Thomas spent some time with "Trent's Mom" working out moves and preparing for a send.
Cold temps chased us back to camp shortly after, but there are plenty of sends coming in the next few days.

When can we go back?

Monday, October 27, 2008

Joe's Day 1

In answer to the e-mails I've been receiving, Joe's Valley was AWESOME.

Upon arriving, no time was wasted in emptying the car and heading for the boulders. First stop was the Moby Dick area to take care of some old business.

Kristen warming up on "Sunshine".
After warming up, I went on to tackle the Whale. "Moby Dick" going down. (Also notice the sweet tattoos Thomas has in this picture!
Next area was Dark Canyon. I had never been here before. It was VERY cold this particular afternoon but I was immediately psyched on "Maxi Pad". Lots of goes gave up not a lot of progress. It was time to move on.
Next up was "Killed by Numbers". This problem is WICKED.
Kristen enjoyed a very proud showing on the problem which is distinctly not her style. She sent it in only 3 or 4 goes!
This guy was everything from beta-monkey to spotter to tour guide to badass extraordinaire!
After spending the afternoon on our projects, we went up to "Man From The Past" which he took down quickly. I believe it chimes in around V10. It certainly was impressive to watch!
While Thomas was resting between burns, I took it upon myself to remove leftover crap from other climbers. This rope was said to belong to a famous Colorado climber who put up a pretty tough problem on the block. It had been there a LONG time and was very dry and sun-damaged.

Why can't we clean up after ourselves AND hike pads in and out AND climb V14? I guess the fact that I have to ask means I will never know.
After watching Thomas send, I got on "Wind Below". I would be psyched to go back and try this line more, but it was not to be on this trip.
Erin sent her project, "Tidal Wave", on the Mine Cart Boulder on the way back to camp as well!
Holy successful day for everyone!
Next it was back to camp for post-send brew-dogs and a COLD night in the tents.

I miss Joe's already.

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Leaving for Joe's

The day has finally come and we leave for Joe's Valley this afternoon. PSYCHED!

Diggs' sister was in town this past weekend so we enjoyed the Denver tourist type things.
Ohh to have a monkey's strength!
As it turns out, our Denver Zoo houses MANY creatures that could kill a human without much effort.
Horray Mo.So. ! Horray Beth Sendage!
Updates coming when we return. Look for the usual mindless commentary and pictures that aren't half as cool or gnarly as I think they are.

Wednesday, October 15, 2008


Tuesday Castlewood Sessions. It's nice to be doing them again and the wood is looking GOOD!
It's also getting a little chilly. Hiking in a beanie? This is novel!
Andrew was psyched. At this point he had some sort of seizure and started talking like a pioneer. "Thars Bouldars in dem dere hills!" he exclaimed.
We started out on nine-lives arete. Super fun. Due to my forgetful tendencies, we had to re-work beta! Nice. I took a stupid fall into the tree and Andrew peeled from the lip.
Dave and Ben cruised it. So far, off to a good start.
Ben catching the choss-bug and attempting variations on established problems.
In attempt to get everyone psyched on Double Dick Dyno I went for it and had no problems until a pebble broke while I was attempting to top out. That is a long fall. Here is what Ben's face likely did while watching my airy winger.
Luckily the clowns were undeterred. Ben gave it hell, but was less than inspired by the big moves.
Dave brought some swagger and pulled it off pretty quickly. No winger even!
I got back on it and re-sent as well before we headed up to Scary Monsters. No photos of that leg due to darkness.
Of course we had the mini-epic to get out. Leaving that side of the canyon is never easy.

Good times!

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Hick in the dark

The Hick boulder is simply not meant for after work sessions.

I know this. However, I was willing to look past that and I'm glad I did. We had a sweet session on Tuesday night. Despite not getting home until 12:30pm.
Dave warming up on pennies. Rich on "The Hick".
Rich deciphering beta on "Fat Lady". Sweet problem. I need to finish it!
Matt also working Fat Lady.
Good times kids.

If anyone cares to experience a little "after work magic" before it gets too cold, we are headed out to Morrison south Friday (10/10) at 5pm. Lanterns, beers, and kids psyched to climb will all be in attendance. I advise you make yourself part of that last category.

Tuesday, October 7, 2008

Tales from the South side

Morrison South. Circuit town. The land of dirt and smiles.

Sunday was a goof-around session and a very enjoyable one.

After over an hour of working the line in the background of the following pictures to no avail, Andrew spotted this King Line and we immediately set to work.

Andrew and I were able to do the "high start" (all things relative) fairly quickly. Then we noticed the low start.
Matt totally dominated the low start to this climb. It was hilarious to watch him go and tag the holds for the other start just to make sure it was valid. No joke, I put more effort in on this thing than I care to admit. The low start is just not... shall we say... my style. Getting my ass off the ground required a monumental effort.
This is how all my attempts at the lower start ended. It's amazing how hard you can fall from a mere 2 feet off the ground!
Next up, we hiked all the way up the ridge to a boulder none of us had been to before.

There was a very enjoyable problem that kept us all entertained and saw several flashes.
I would totally recommend it to anyone. There are supposed to be some harder contrivances right by it, but we could not spot them.
Judging by old climbing film, we sort of did a hybrid of The System and The Shell.

Anyone know what is going on this coming weekend yet?

Friday, October 3, 2008